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Soccer
Cleat Information
To the soccer player, footwear
is often the most important piece of soccer equipment he or she
can own and also the most difficult to choose. The possibilities
are endless, so many different styles, so many different
technologies, how does one ever decide? How do you ever find the
soccer cleat that is right for you? And once you find the shoes
that fit, how do you break them in? And how should you care for
your shoes after each wearing?. What goes on your feet will
control what happens on the field.
There are two major performance
considerations that should shape your decisions with soccer
footwear. Your cleat choice will primarily rely on these two
questions: what kind of surface do you play on and how much
touch does your game demand? The answers to these questions will
help you determine the right cleat for you. It is also important
to remember that maximum performance will come from a boot that
is the most comfortable on your feet.
Construction:
Outsoles: The outsole is the
part of the shoe that touches the ground. The field on which you
play should determine the type of outsole you choose. The main
types of soccer outsoles are:
Molded or firm ground - These
are built for most firm natural surfaces. They use molded studs
to provide traction on most pitches and are by far the most
popular and versatile outsole for natural surfaces. Molded
cleats feature both conical and bladed studs.
Replaceable or soft ground -
For soft or wet natural surfaces (i.e. well-groomed pitches or
mud). Traditionally, soft ground/replaceable have used fewer
well-spaced, longer replaceable studs, however many now have
bladed studs that are not actually removable. They are the
choice for many professional players on manicured pitches, but
are not ideal for most American fields because the firmness of
the pitch. If used on pitches that are too hard, they can create
stud pressure pain and lead to injury.
Turf or Hard Ground - Created
for artificial or hard natural surfaces like artificial turf or
solid, sun-baked ground. They also provide a good option on
frozen fields and make a great backup pair for most players.
Indoor - As the name suggests,
for indoor or dry artificial surfaces. Often referred to as
flats, indoor boots generally have a non-marking rubber sole.
Upper: Simply stated, the upper
is the part of the shoe that contacts the ball. Uppers are made
out of a variety of different natural and synthetic leathers.
Both offer a wide range of feel and durability. The softer the
leather, the better the touch. Unfortunately, the best touch
often means lesser durability. Another factor to consider is
water retention; many soft, natural leathers absorb water when
playing on a wet pitch.
Many coatings and treatments are also available on the upper.
They are designed to create friction for control, create a
swerve on well-struck balls, or prevent water retention.
The major types of uppers are:
Kangaroo: Kangaroo leather is a
soft leather that stretches and molds to the foot. It is the
most expensive and results in a pricier boot. It is lightweight
and high quality. Shoes made of Kangaroo leather are the most
comfortable you will own, however you sacrifice some durability
and shoes made of Kangaroo leather usually will not last very
long.
Calfskin /Full-Grain: Calfskin is not supple like kangaroo
leather but it is much more durable. It is heavier that kangaroo
and will not stretch as much. However it is tough and boots made
of calfskin usually fall into the mid-price range.
Pittards Leather: Pittards leather is only used in Puma shoes.
It is calfskin leather that has gone through a patented
treatment process. This process gives the leather a
water-resistant quality and causes the boot to dry faster. It
also retains its softness and stretches less. Shoes made with
pittards leather usually fall somewhere in between shoes of
Kangaroo and Calfskin in terms of price.
Other Types of Shoes:
Running and training shoes for general fitness are a staple for
any player. Generally, running shoes feature rubber outsole and
nylon uppers. Some soccer trainers now offer a soccer upper and
a running shoe outsole. Trail shoes are built like most other
running shoes, but have a heavier outsole, and should be able to
take heavier use. Sandals are key for many soccer players. These
rubber slides offer some much-needed relief after 90 minutes in
a match or intense training.
Pricing:
The primary factor determining the price of a cleats is the
quality of the leather used in construction. The amount of
technology that goes into a shoe also has an influence on its
price. Many boot technologies and their definitions can be found
in the technology glossary. The higher level the player
generally the more money he or she will invest in cleats.
Sizing:
cleats should fit snugly in the heel and the toe a snug fit
improves both performance and comfort. A comfortable width is
important, as well. Comfort is your driving factor; the more
natural the boots feel on your feet the more comfortable you'll
be on the field. The width and feel of shoes (dependant upon the
last, which the shoe was molded on) varies with manufacturers
and models. Keep in mind the material of the shoe in determining
fit you can expect high-quality, natural leathers to stretch
some. Therefore they should definitely be snug when new. As a
note to parents of junior players: We do not recommend buying
shoes too large for players to "grow into." An overly large or
poorly fitting shoe can contribute to accidents or injury as
players push themselves to their limits.
Women's vs. Men's Shoes. It
used to be that women soccer players could only buy men's shoes
and a lot of the time high quality cleats were not made in sizes
that were small enough to fit a women's foot. No longer!
Companies now carry a complete collection of cleats designed
specifically for the female player. But if you are a female and
find that you can only find a man's cleats that suits you, then
sizes usually translate. A size 5.5 men's usually equals a size
6.5 women's as demonstrated in the chart below:
|
SHOE SIZING |
|
MENS |
WOMENS |
EUROPE |
|
4 |
5.5 |
38 |
|
5 |
6.5 |
39 |
|
6 |
7.5 |
40 |
|
7 |
8.5 |
41 |
|
8 |
9.5 |
42 |
|
9 |
10.5 |
43 |
|
10 |
X |
44 |
|
11 |
X |
45 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Care:
After you finish a training session or match, you'll want to
prepare your cleats for their next wearing. Taking care of your
boots improves their performance and wearable life. Immediately
after play, lightly knock any excessive mud and dirt off your
boots. This is important because mud can draw moisture out of
the leather and ruin it. When you get your boots home, make sure
they are dry. To properly dry them, fill them with newspaper,
taking care not to overstuff them, and place them in a cool, dry
place out of direct sunlight. When shoes are heat-dried they can
dry out, stiffen, and age prematurely (dry rot). After they are
dry make sure they are clean by brushing and wiping them inside
and out. Use an old toothbrush to remove dirt caked into
crevices. You can also try the Kleen Kleat, which works great on
most cleats . Once dry, natural leather cleats should be treated
with a conditioner to help prolong their life. Store your boots
in a breathable shoe or all-purpose bag - but never in a plastic
bag, which traps moisture.

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